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Sera Monastery at Bylakuppe in Karnataka is the largest Tibetan monastery in exile and one of the three great Gelug monastic universities, reconstructed after the destruction of the original Sera in Lhasa. Over 5,000 monks live and study here, and the sound of daily debate in the monastery courtyards — monks clapping as they challenge each other with logical puzzles — is one of the most extraordinary sounds in the Buddhist world. Bylakuppe itself is the largest Tibetan settlement in India outside Dharamsala and has over a dozen monasteries from various traditions. The area is called “Mini Tibet” and visiting gives a vivid sense of the living culture that was displaced from Tibet. The Namdroling Nyingma monastery nearby is famous for its stunning Golden Temple.
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